I liken the experience in Armenia to that of being on top of a freezing cold mountain unprepared. If you're focusing on the discomfort, such as the cold wind bearing down on you, the ice at your feet, the lack of long-johns, or the gloves you wish you had, you're missing the view. Armenia has a lot of things to offer, as long as you're willing to give it the attention it deserves. In the mountain analogy, it would be like starting a fire, and then sitting back to really take in the rugged and beautiful terrain.
The extent to which literacy is tied to Armenian identity is quite striking. It's one thing to read about the history of Armenian people and recognize that the Armenian alphabet was created specifically in the 5th century to allow for all the possible phonetic sounds in the language, but another thing to actually witness the sense of identity that this establishes. Most Armenians have extensive libraries of books in their own home. In fact, there are even panhandlers on the street selling books like it's crack. There's also a sense of historic and contemporary exclusiveness when such a small group of people around the world are dialed into that specific language. It's almost like the smaller and older an ethno-linguistic group, the greater the exclusivity of the culture. When your language is so closely tied to your identity, it gives you a somewhat inflated sense of perspective as well. You do feel a uniqueness that is rare in the world. I suppose it stems from a sense of pride, knowing that through all the tragic events that have occurred in Armenia's past, the language has survived for over 3000 years. Not only has it survived, but with the creation of an alphabet, it has become institutionalized for over 1600 years.
Another noticeable element to Armenian culture is the tendency to categorize things into stricter orders than one may find in the American experience. Taking age as an example, young children are rarely treated as though they have any say in their lives and experience. They are children, and because of that categorical label, they have no right to ask for things and expect to obtain them. A spoiled child is frowned upon and the parents of that child are often looked at as incompetent. In the American experience, self esteem is stressed over behavior. Basically, a child should learn to know their place and never expect to be treated as though they were in charge of their lives. Similarly, when it comes to the elderly, they're often marginalized to an extent, because they're considered past their prime. They obviously have their uses, but should not expect to be treated as though they were 30 years old. Yet, even with these stricter categorization tendencies, families are extremely close. Many generations live within the same household, and the bond that one finds within their own family extends to those of close friends and relatives. People here absolutely love children, but, rarely do you find a spoiled child. A precocious child who sings and dances brings a smile to everybody. You will not find a single person who seems unamused, or annoyed by the presence of this child. Also, in the Armenian language, there are so many familial terms, it's hard keeping up. There's a specific term for a mother-in-law that's the wife's mother (zokanch), and another for the husband's mother (kesur). Further, there's specific terms for an uncle from the father's side, and that from the mother's. This richness in descriptive terms may also be a result of the colorful quality of the language itself. Generally, I've noticed that a paragraph in English translated to Armenian takes a great deal more space. Verbosity is definitely a significant element of the Armenian language. Structurally, it's quite easy to string word roots together to become descriptively more specific. Thus, polysyllabic words are commonly encountered linguistic phenomena.
Pets in Armenia are viewed quite differently as well. Due to the ubiquity of street dogs, people don't view dogs as the domestic companion that North Americans tend to associate with. Since most dogs people encounter are strays that roam in packs, their mental picture of a dog is a scroungy mutt eating garbage off the side of the street. Some people are downright mean to these dogs, kicking and spitting at them. Due to my regional biases, when I see these dogs, I'm impressed by their survivability. There truly is a Darwinian element to their existence. Some of these dogs have evolved impressive skills of navigating through traffic, even the speeds with which it flows here in Yerevan. Because it's winter here, these dogs have further adapted to the elements, and those that are often seen tend to grow thick coats of fur. Those that do have dogs as pets can be categorized (allow me to be Armenian here) into two main groups. You have the dog owners who want to show their power, so they walk muzzled German shepherds that are twice the size of the ones in the US. These owners also tend to favor other large alert-looking breeds. Your second main dog owner tends to favor the smaller, hyperactive dogs that look well maintained, indicating to other people that you finally caved in to the pleating and constant begging of your wife and children.
The cultural life is so rich in Yerevan, it's hard to take two steps without noticing some element of it. From the statues that endlessly dominate the landscape, to the countless museums, the opera, the theatres, music clubs, and even the street musicians, this is a country that doesn't shy away from it's cultural roots. It's also a cosmopolitan mix of cultural elements that give Yerevan an internationally variable flavor. Armenia truly is a near-chaotic mix of global elements. In addition to intrinsic cultural modalities, there's a sieve like openness to adopting various elements from extrinsic sources. It's interesting to note what becomes adopted and diffused into contemporary Yerevan, and what is discarded. The automobile alone is a conspicuous microcosm of cultural chaos in Yerevan. In addition to the Russian-made models of vehicles that are a product of Soviet times, there are also European, American, as well as Japanese and Korean models. Some of the German vehicles are so new, they haven't even seen the light of day in outlying areas of Germany itself. With all these disparate choices of cars, people tend to drive them as fast as possible as the car's top speed dictates. With cars from so many regions, the license plates have to be variable as well. Anything from the squarer American type plates to the more rectangular European and Japanese plates. Through all these speeding cars, there are microbuses and taxis navigating as though they're on an obstacle course. One does wonder how a country with 70% of the population struggling to make ends meet can be home to so many powerful cars. Those who have the goods, whether legitimately or not, know how to flash it. They don't shy away from humility when it comes to indicating to those around you that your bank account is bigger than the Sultan of Brunei's.
One can't speak of global culturally influenced diversity without mentioning food. There is nearly nothing that's unobtainable in Yerevan today. Restaurants cater to every mouth-water appetite. Yet, just as in other parts of the world, there are certain things that will seem oddly placed. You can go to a Mexican restaurant here and find pickled celery...quite the head scratcher. If you find yourself in an American-style pizza place, there will be yogurt. There's also a KFC restaurant (HQ in Russia), which offers an interesting combo meal. You can buy some KFC chicken, with shish kebab, and soda (probably Coke or Fanta choices).
Saturday, January 30, 2010
Monday, January 25, 2010
Armenia lacks critical thinking -- It's a conspiracy, man!
Every time I come to Armenia, I notice significant changes such as new buildings and tunnels, people's style of clothing, additional tourists, and the ever-changing nightlife, with bars and clubs opening, older ones closing. Throughout all this visual bedlam, the one constant that remains is the lack of critical thought in people's opinions and beliefs. Practically every conversation eventually leads to the discovery or uncovering of a conspiracy. Rumors heard, snippets read aloud in hushed tones, biased newspaper clippings that are obviously skewed, all lead to some incredible beliefs. It's quite a shock to realize how little reality and rationalism has to do with someone's piecemeal worldview. It's one thing to have a theological discussion about reality, and what constitutes one's personal choices in their lack or strength of religious belief, but it's a completely different animal when people can't seem to tell the difference between evidence and unsubstantiated rumor(s). As long as some gathered data points fit into a predetermined grid, further strengthening the skewed core, and dismissing all points to the contrary, Armenians become enamored with subjective perspectives. Their convictions to these irrational beliefs are only strengthened through time. Yet, as soon as something shakes their perspective, and their beliefs suddenly change, the fact that they had such strength in conviction is easily forgotten and discounted, only to be replaced with something else of equal or greater conviction. It's like an infinite cyclical process that seems to have no visible means of ending.
Most heated, unsubstantiated, and irrational discussions tend to focus on Armenia's lack of power in the world. To the population at large, it's always due to external forces, and internal ones that have sold out to those outside forces. As is often the case in global politics, external forces are an unavoidable constant. It's how you deal with those forces and organize to strengthen against fragmentation that determines your perceived strength. Further, a little perspective wouldn't hurt the situation either. The fact that there's still a country, no matter how small, still called Hayastan, after at least 2600 years of intermittent boundary recognition is an amazing feat of luck and nuanced political maneuvering. Armenians have gone from tribal rule (3000 years ago), to monarchy (intermittently from 2500 - 600 years ago), to theocracy, to communism, and now, emerging Democracy. Trying to explain all this from a rational perspective does not sit well with people's biased opinions. Nationalism itself is a touchy subject and attempting to show through evidence that there is no such thing as ethnic purity, and all that happened to unify a certain group of people that we now call Armenians is a common language at some point in the past, tends to be dismissed at best, and considered treacherous and offensive at worst. Many academics who have attempted to maintain critical thought have been ostracized and considered traitors.
A very enlightening conversation with other diasporans has made me realize that this lack of critical thought has not gone unnoticed. Once aware of the extent to which it's exercised, almost every single conversation seems to retain some element of it. To be fair however, it's not as though there's just one substantiated explanation for everything. As was so eloquently explained by a very intelligent political scientist, critical thought however isn't limited towards identifying just one interpretation of a given subject. There may indeed be numerous equally valid interpretations that must all be carefully analyzed. As more evidence comes to light, the likelihood of these various interpretations shift accordingly. Some strengthen as others significantly weaken. As an example; the people who built the Egyptian pyramids are now known to have been paid Egyptian workers, some skilled, others laborers, but all doing it out of state sanctioned necessity. For a significant amount of time, leading up to mide to late 20th century, due in no small part to Biblical perspectives, the pyramids were thought to have been built by Hebrew slaves. It's understandable that the lack of physical evidence, such as archaeological records, limited perspective and scope. Since the only account for a significant amount of time was that of the Bible, other perspectives were non-existent. However, as more information came to light and as as Egyptian records were uncovered, it became clear that there might be more to this story. Soon enough, with substantial archaeological discoveries, it's become increasingly clear that only one interpretation is truly substantiated. Not all modes of thought that involve such interpretations can be so nicely cleared, but it's only through evidence, critical thinking, and by extension, the scientific method, that we can form a worldview with a healthy perspective. Did you hear that Armenia?
Most heated, unsubstantiated, and irrational discussions tend to focus on Armenia's lack of power in the world. To the population at large, it's always due to external forces, and internal ones that have sold out to those outside forces. As is often the case in global politics, external forces are an unavoidable constant. It's how you deal with those forces and organize to strengthen against fragmentation that determines your perceived strength. Further, a little perspective wouldn't hurt the situation either. The fact that there's still a country, no matter how small, still called Hayastan, after at least 2600 years of intermittent boundary recognition is an amazing feat of luck and nuanced political maneuvering. Armenians have gone from tribal rule (3000 years ago), to monarchy (intermittently from 2500 - 600 years ago), to theocracy, to communism, and now, emerging Democracy. Trying to explain all this from a rational perspective does not sit well with people's biased opinions. Nationalism itself is a touchy subject and attempting to show through evidence that there is no such thing as ethnic purity, and all that happened to unify a certain group of people that we now call Armenians is a common language at some point in the past, tends to be dismissed at best, and considered treacherous and offensive at worst. Many academics who have attempted to maintain critical thought have been ostracized and considered traitors.
A very enlightening conversation with other diasporans has made me realize that this lack of critical thought has not gone unnoticed. Once aware of the extent to which it's exercised, almost every single conversation seems to retain some element of it. To be fair however, it's not as though there's just one substantiated explanation for everything. As was so eloquently explained by a very intelligent political scientist, critical thought however isn't limited towards identifying just one interpretation of a given subject. There may indeed be numerous equally valid interpretations that must all be carefully analyzed. As more evidence comes to light, the likelihood of these various interpretations shift accordingly. Some strengthen as others significantly weaken. As an example; the people who built the Egyptian pyramids are now known to have been paid Egyptian workers, some skilled, others laborers, but all doing it out of state sanctioned necessity. For a significant amount of time, leading up to mide to late 20th century, due in no small part to Biblical perspectives, the pyramids were thought to have been built by Hebrew slaves. It's understandable that the lack of physical evidence, such as archaeological records, limited perspective and scope. Since the only account for a significant amount of time was that of the Bible, other perspectives were non-existent. However, as more information came to light and as as Egyptian records were uncovered, it became clear that there might be more to this story. Soon enough, with substantial archaeological discoveries, it's become increasingly clear that only one interpretation is truly substantiated. Not all modes of thought that involve such interpretations can be so nicely cleared, but it's only through evidence, critical thinking, and by extension, the scientific method, that we can form a worldview with a healthy perspective. Did you hear that Armenia?
Friday, January 22, 2010
The Armenian Profile
Most ethnic groups in the world have certain physical traits that are quickly identifiable by outsiders. Armenians, however, are a very diverse group of people, making it difficult for most stereotypical categorizations. Although the majority have dark hair, there are a significant minority with lighter hair, even those as blonde as seen in Northern Europe. Further, there's a great deal of variability in body type, from short to tall, fat to thin, and everything in between. It's quite a shock to realize that all these physically diverse people share the same cultural heritage and identify within the same ethno-linguistic group. Often within the same family, there is such a physical difference that it's hard to conclude a common origin. Even body hair is much more variable than I had expected. Sure, as a rule, Armenians in general are more pileous than most non-Mediterranean/West Asian peoples, but there's still a great deal of variability in the degree and magnitude. Yet, there is one major exception to all this. Much has been written about the Armenian nose, but very little of that is an exaggeration. We truly are a people with characteristic noses. Truth be told, there is a great deal of variation in even this feature, but what ties most Armenians together is that the defining characteristic of their faces are their noses. Especially noticeable in profile, nature didn't think there was a limit towards experimenting with whimsical projections of flesh and cartilage. Something this unique, anywhere else would stand out quite strikingly, but when it's so ubiquitous, it becomes practically normal.
As an example, here's a humble, crudely pieced together comparison of my profile, along with that of the greatest king Armenia's every known: Tigran the Great. It's in no way an arrogant personal reflection, but is made to show that nearly 2100 years and countless numbers of foreign invaders weren't enough to deter this particular physical trait.
Sure, the angle's a bit different, but as can be seen, noses are our national landmark. They should be protected under UNESCO world heritage conservation. It's a defining national characteristic. I guess we should look forward to another 2100 years of nasal dominance.
As an example, here's a humble, crudely pieced together comparison of my profile, along with that of the greatest king Armenia's every known: Tigran the Great. It's in no way an arrogant personal reflection, but is made to show that nearly 2100 years and countless numbers of foreign invaders weren't enough to deter this particular physical trait.
Sure, the angle's a bit different, but as can be seen, noses are our national landmark. They should be protected under UNESCO world heritage conservation. It's a defining national characteristic. I guess we should look forward to another 2100 years of nasal dominance.
Thursday, January 21, 2010
Broken Promises
You're not officially in Armenia until you come face to face with the snarling dragon called broken promise. Sure, it's an elusive creature that seems completely invisible. It doesn't make itself known until you're so sure it's not there, you've discounted the possibility and haven't given it a passing thought. Your excitement towards something different, and the constant novel experiences at every turn prevent you from thinking about anything that may cause difficulty on your path. Suddenly, broken promise thunders across the sky, making sure every living creature, from bear to insect is aware of its presence.
My dragon was related to the officials at Yerevan State University. Apparently, due to instructors and other administrative officials accepting bribes for grades, the staff at the university had a visit from Mr. Government. What MG said was that unless major changes were in order, a lot of people's head would roll. Because of this, all the administrative staff developed the power needed to summon broken promise. They began to deal tentatively with my transfer situation and backpedaled their way over a cliff. I was told that I could not enter Medical school as a transfer student in the second semester of the third level, as promised, but as a favor to me, would place me in September at the second level. Basically, I've suddenly faced with 1 1/2 years of additional coursework that I've already completed. I must now retake Chemistry and physics courses, amongst many others that I have no need for. What's worse is that they make it seem like broken promise is a favor.
Although I should be incensed, I'm not frightened by this ugly dragon. This is just a hurdle that was to be expected because this is Armenia. It's not the contractually obligated United States and you can't take anybody's word, especially a government official's for anything nearing certainty. Promises are easy to make, but breaking them is simpler than trying to uphold ones word.
My journey into Medical school just got much more complicated, but I'll take a page from a certain local animal and do as they do. When moufflon find a barrier in their infinite climbs up and down rugged mountains, they don't flinch for a second. They always find a way to greener pastures and nothing, not even the climactic elements could keep them from their goal. Like the mighty moufflon, I'll accept my current situation, and charge forward. Greener pastures, one way or another...even if it takes a dragon slaying to accomplish.
My dragon was related to the officials at Yerevan State University. Apparently, due to instructors and other administrative officials accepting bribes for grades, the staff at the university had a visit from Mr. Government. What MG said was that unless major changes were in order, a lot of people's head would roll. Because of this, all the administrative staff developed the power needed to summon broken promise. They began to deal tentatively with my transfer situation and backpedaled their way over a cliff. I was told that I could not enter Medical school as a transfer student in the second semester of the third level, as promised, but as a favor to me, would place me in September at the second level. Basically, I've suddenly faced with 1 1/2 years of additional coursework that I've already completed. I must now retake Chemistry and physics courses, amongst many others that I have no need for. What's worse is that they make it seem like broken promise is a favor.
Although I should be incensed, I'm not frightened by this ugly dragon. This is just a hurdle that was to be expected because this is Armenia. It's not the contractually obligated United States and you can't take anybody's word, especially a government official's for anything nearing certainty. Promises are easy to make, but breaking them is simpler than trying to uphold ones word.
My journey into Medical school just got much more complicated, but I'll take a page from a certain local animal and do as they do. When moufflon find a barrier in their infinite climbs up and down rugged mountains, they don't flinch for a second. They always find a way to greener pastures and nothing, not even the climactic elements could keep them from their goal. Like the mighty moufflon, I'll accept my current situation, and charge forward. Greener pastures, one way or another...even if it takes a dragon slaying to accomplish.
Destination Yerevan
For those who plan on flying Aeroflot, expect to wait. When you're tired of waiting and it seems like it can't get any worse, plan to wait some more. Eventually, the flight itself, as long as it is, seems much shorter in comparison. Apparently, the Aeroflot staff are trained repeatedly to become detached and careless. What's important to them is to delay relevant information to disgruntled passengers until the absolute last moment.
My flight took off from Los Angeles about 7 hours late, and by the time I landed in Moscow, the 6 1/2 hour layover that seemed as though it would take forever wasn't quite enough time. Once in Moscow, I had no choice but to be placed in a hotel until the next morning. What's more, since I was a transit passenger with no Russian visa, I was treated like a Chechen prisoner. They put me up on a special hotel floor with its own security guard, and the -15 Celsius outside apparently wasn't a barrier enough to prevent my roaming the streets. At some point, thanks to jet lag, I stepped out of the room to ask to use the computers but was told that the security detail was unavailable till 6 am, and I was left trapped in my own room. Sure, they provided some breakfast, and shuttled me back to the airport on time, but my frustration towards Aeroflot wasn't fully reduced. Once there, the plane managed to take off an hour late as the wings were deiced on the runway. After some tortuous turbulence, I finally arrived in Yerevan to a balmy winter. Instead of snow, it was rain that greeted my arrival.
My flight took off from Los Angeles about 7 hours late, and by the time I landed in Moscow, the 6 1/2 hour layover that seemed as though it would take forever wasn't quite enough time. Once in Moscow, I had no choice but to be placed in a hotel until the next morning. What's more, since I was a transit passenger with no Russian visa, I was treated like a Chechen prisoner. They put me up on a special hotel floor with its own security guard, and the -15 Celsius outside apparently wasn't a barrier enough to prevent my roaming the streets. At some point, thanks to jet lag, I stepped out of the room to ask to use the computers but was told that the security detail was unavailable till 6 am, and I was left trapped in my own room. Sure, they provided some breakfast, and shuttled me back to the airport on time, but my frustration towards Aeroflot wasn't fully reduced. Once there, the plane managed to take off an hour late as the wings were deiced on the runway. After some tortuous turbulence, I finally arrived in Yerevan to a balmy winter. Instead of snow, it was rain that greeted my arrival.
Thursday, January 7, 2010
Preparing to Depart
It's now exactly a week to the day I'll be leaving the comfortable clime of Hawaii to the distinct reality that is Armenia. I'm both excited and apprehensive at the unknowns facing me. Most of my thoughts are aimed at the little things that I probably shouldn't really worry about. I'm still deciding as to what specific items of clothing I may need, and which ones I should just leave behind. Further, I'm also concerned about how the visa situation will turn out, as I'm planning on starting my trip with a 90 day traveler visa, followed by either a student visa or a green card. Since I was born in Armenia, it's certainly within the realm of feasibility to obtain a green card. Yet, I don't know how this quasi dual citizenship will reflect as I re-enter the United States.
Considering the small details that concern me, I'll probably come to realize they're baseless, and wonder why I hadn't spent more time reflecting on the more serious consequences of my Armenian adventure.
As the New Year has dawned, I'm looking forward to the open adventure that awaits me, but trying to maintain some semblance of grounded sensibility. It's hard to relate these upcoming experiences with those of other people, as it's such a personal introspective journey. Perhaps on the surface, it may seem similar, the true depth of each person's experience is singular and probably incomparable. It helps to know that others have gone to foreign medical schools and have been able to obtain residency upon their return. Certainly, the younger generation of physicians have a better grasp of these intricacies, as they have many colleagues that have endured the tortuous path to medicine.
Considering the small details that concern me, I'll probably come to realize they're baseless, and wonder why I hadn't spent more time reflecting on the more serious consequences of my Armenian adventure.
As the New Year has dawned, I'm looking forward to the open adventure that awaits me, but trying to maintain some semblance of grounded sensibility. It's hard to relate these upcoming experiences with those of other people, as it's such a personal introspective journey. Perhaps on the surface, it may seem similar, the true depth of each person's experience is singular and probably incomparable. It helps to know that others have gone to foreign medical schools and have been able to obtain residency upon their return. Certainly, the younger generation of physicians have a better grasp of these intricacies, as they have many colleagues that have endured the tortuous path to medicine.
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)