We were gathered together under a hot July sun as a sample representation of diasporans from all over the world. As we all stared at a small plateau across from a picturesque gorge towards some historic ruins, I couldn't help but notice the somber intensity of geopolitics weighing in at every wistful moment. We were quite the diverse group, varying across the spectrum of physical traits and cultural influences. What unified us at that single moment was a shared experience of the disquieting nature present at a very personal level when history, politics and geography combine to prevent access to that which you feel should be yours.
Ani was once a magnificent city located on a protective plateau in historic Armenia. During the Baghratuni dynasty, approximately a thousand years ago, Ani's population and status grew to that of the largest city in Armenia. It became a cultural and religious center for Armenians, at a time when the Byzantine Empire and the Arab world were attempting to coerce and at times forcefully pressure Armenia into submission. Under the strong Baghratuni leadership, Ani became a formidable city, with a population of 100,000, hundreds of churches (also known as the city of a 1001 churches), large contingents of soldiers, and defensive walls that had gates radiating all over the compass headings. The Byzantine Empire, feeling threatened by Armenia's re-emergence as a regional power on its Eastern flank, began to withdraw its financial and military support that had allowed Armenia to check the advance of Arabs and the then migrating Turkish tribes. With numerous political games eventually successful, Ani, and all of Armenia in general fell to the nomadic Turkish tribes. Although Ani for a time remained as a functioning Armenian city, all was completely lost with the invasion of the mongols, and concluding with Timurlane's conquests of Asia minor. Jumping forward approximately 500 years, Ani was an abandoned reminder of the once mighty Armenian nation. As the 20th century rolled around, and the Ottoman Turk's brutal campaign against the Armenian population culminated in the Armenian Genocide of 1915-1923, what remained of Armenia was swallowed into the Soviet Union. The Soviets, attempting to appease the Turks, then handed over the Kars province, where Ani was situated, to the modern nation of Turkey. With the Iron Curtain thickly drawn, the borders were forcefully guarded and all that had remained of Ani continued to deteriorate. There were no attempts at restoration until recently, and many of the buildings and historical architecture present were damaged, mutilated, and erased of any history that can trace it back to historic Armenia. Today, Ani is a tourist attraction next to a small Kurdish village. The Kurds provide access and false information to tourists who wish to visit the ruins.
We stood across the Turkish border in the hot summer breeze and saw the tourists in their cars and buses coming and going through Ani as though it was their living rooms. The most unsettling experience of all was when the Islamic prayer, approximately 1420 Armenian time, rolled around in Ani, and we were helpless to watch and listen across the Akhuryan gorge. It was our history, our home, the blood of our ancestors that were shed on that soil, and yet, here we were, staring at Kurds, and tourists, with a prayer that was so foreign, and yet, so tragically familiar.
On the Armenian side of the border, we were free to be ourselves. We spoke with the soldiers stationed to guard the border, who were happy for anyone to break the monotony of staring at nearly nothingness. A thousand years ago, this area was thriving in activity, the likes of which even Yerevan doesn't see. In a seemingly small encompassing region, to have so many people, and so many churches is practically unbelievable. The few churches left standing are in such decayed ruins that one moderate earthquake, or a few more years of Turkish neglect will just about completely erase. Obviously, the archaeological record beneath the top layer of the surface can allow direct access to the origins of the city, but Ani as it was when it was abandoned at its height is now completely erased. Yet, I noticed that there were some defensive walls on the Armenian side. They seemed to have surrounded a large outcropping, and could have been Cyclopian walls that were meant to surround a defensive fort looking out across the Akhuryan gorge (on the Armenian side of the border) of Ani. Yet, these walls were in the same state of ruin as those across the Akhuryan. These walls obviously had no archaeological treatment and their historical use probably remains a mystery. Knowing that this particular segment that's in Armenia is neglected, our pressure towards Turkey for maintaining Ani can easily fall on deaf ears. Although I can't quite say this is hypocritical, because Armenia's small budget is already stretched as thin as possible, and perhaps there are buffer zone issues and permits that are inaccessible for the archaeology, preservation, and maintenance required. Turkey on the other hand, has placed regulations so strict, that it makes it nearly impossible to renovate historic churches, and Armenian landmarks. Although they claim to be a democracy, it's obvious that their continued neglect and active destruction of Armenian history is continuous to modern cultural genocide. Thanks to geopolitics however, Turkey is still coddled by the United States and any cultural and human rights abuses are mostly forgotten. Due to its strategic location, even Russia, is courting Turkey and keeping the antagonism to a minimum. As has been the case since World War I, mass crimes continue to be forgotten. The world may be ignorant, and Turkey may actively try to forget, but we, on this side of the Akhuryan river will never forget, we'll always remember history as it was, and although there's much to do in Armenia to bring it on par with respectful standards, we don't have to try to stand on the shoulders of giants...we already do. Our ancestors, and their continued survival proves that we are the proud inheritors of their free will to survive and thrive. We're not just hapless victims of countless genocides, but active participants in the global community, who must sometimes swim against the current to uphold our place within it.
Monday, July 5, 2010
End of First Semester, start of Birthright Armenia experience.
Having just concluded my first semester of medical school in Armenia, I can finally look back on the last few months and reflect a little at the significant personal and educational growth I've encountered. It was an interesting experience studying in Armenian with subjects that I've taken 12/13 years ago. Although I've forgotten practically everything in subjects like biochemistry and physiology, trying to relearn it in Armenian, as well as concurrently in English was quite a challenge. As the final exams rolled near, the focus and attention required for studying the massive amount of information, especially the first semester of which I was absent, was quite exciting and at times, formidable. Unlike most final exams in the United States, the exams in Armenian are oral exams in format, called "banavor". Basically, before the start of the exams, 80-120 questions are given to us to study. On the day of the exam, we blindly pull a piece of paper that has 3-4 of these questions on it. These are what we must explain. The purpose of the exam is to see how thoroughly we've learned it, and how well we can present that information orally, as though we were trying to teach that particular subject. Because it's a vastly different process than what I'm used to, it was difficult to imagine what the exam would be like until I actually had to participate in it. Partly due to luck, considering the draw of exam questions, and partly to the glut of information we've studied, the answers we give to those questions can then be followed up by our instructors with more questions that we must think to answer. Considering the fact that the exams were in Armenian, and I'm still tackling that steep learning curve, I didn't perform too badly. The final grades I received were acceptable to me, and I hope by the conclusion of next year, my Armenian will be sufficient as to be less important than the amount of information I've learned. Now I know what total and complete immersion feels like. Though the amount of information one needs to learn is vast, the process of learning is exciting and interesting. I had forgotten the joys and tribulations of formal education.
Realizing that after the end of my semester, I still had the whole summer in Armenia, I decided to prevent a wasteful experience and join Birthright Armenia as a volunteer (through the Armenian Volunteer Corps--AVC program). What BR does is basically provides the means for Diasporan Armenians from around the world to come to Armenia and experience as much as they can in the amount of time they can provide. To participate, one has to have some Armenian blood (1/8 I believe), and devote anywhere from 2 months to perhaps years. The program has a few rules and criteria that if followed, pays for the ticket, as well as housing. The participants are placed with host families to fully realize the Armenian experience and immerse themselves in the culture. They also have free language lessons twice a week if necessary. Finally, BR organizes excursion throughout Armenia for its members that can provide a sense of familiarity and homeliness to the participants. Through any of the various volunteer service programs, BR participants are then placed in areas of interest to work for the duration of their stay. The volunteer service programs, such as AVC, are also important in that they provide the volunteers a working experience that further enhances their stay in Armenia. They don't require BR participation, and are more flexible in terms of terms and conditions. For AVC's case, there's no age limit (32 for BR) and the volunteers themselves can be completely non-Armenian if they wish. With this, there's a summer full of interesting activities and I look forward to writing about my personal and general experience within the framework of BR/AVC programs.
Realizing that after the end of my semester, I still had the whole summer in Armenia, I decided to prevent a wasteful experience and join Birthright Armenia as a volunteer (through the Armenian Volunteer Corps--AVC program). What BR does is basically provides the means for Diasporan Armenians from around the world to come to Armenia and experience as much as they can in the amount of time they can provide. To participate, one has to have some Armenian blood (1/8 I believe), and devote anywhere from 2 months to perhaps years. The program has a few rules and criteria that if followed, pays for the ticket, as well as housing. The participants are placed with host families to fully realize the Armenian experience and immerse themselves in the culture. They also have free language lessons twice a week if necessary. Finally, BR organizes excursion throughout Armenia for its members that can provide a sense of familiarity and homeliness to the participants. Through any of the various volunteer service programs, BR participants are then placed in areas of interest to work for the duration of their stay. The volunteer service programs, such as AVC, are also important in that they provide the volunteers a working experience that further enhances their stay in Armenia. They don't require BR participation, and are more flexible in terms of terms and conditions. For AVC's case, there's no age limit (32 for BR) and the volunteers themselves can be completely non-Armenian if they wish. With this, there's a summer full of interesting activities and I look forward to writing about my personal and general experience within the framework of BR/AVC programs.
Sunday, May 2, 2010
Recent paper on Genetically Modified Organisms and their effect on Armenia
The effect of GMO’s on health and the environment in Armenia
In order to understand the potential impact of GMO’s, knowledge of what they are and how they’re produced is necessary. GMO’s, Genetically Modified Organisms, are essentially artificially created organisms that have had their genomes manipulated for various potentially advantageous reasons. Generally, the reasons for creating such altered organisms are for potential benefits in the realm of pharmaceutics, experimental medicine, and particularly agriculture. In terms of the potential environmental impact to Armenia
Since GMOs are so recent in human history, the complete environmental effects are yet inconclusive. Experience however, has shown that when complex environmental interactions are suspected, caution must be exercised to avoid cross-contamination. Since GMOs, particularly agricultural crops, have had their genetic structure altered, it is possible to accidentally expose unaltered plants that would not normally have the artificially modified genes. The pollen of these GMO plants can spread through mechanisms like insects, birds, and the wind. Plants that are particularly susceptible to GMO contamination often occur in areas of the world that remain unregulated, with no GMO specific labeling laws. Armenia Armenia Armenia Yerevan Armenia
Besides agricultural contamination, the complete health effects of GMOs on humans, domesticated animals, and even wild species, have yet to be fully realized. The modified genes in these organisms can possible cross the species barrier and effect humans directly, or indirectly. The direct effects, for example, can be a result of eating insect resistant GMO apples (which produce their own pesticide), or indirectly, from eating sheep that have fed on GMO wheat. Although the specific dangers are yet inconclusive, the fact that there’s a likelihood for these genes to disperse from their intended targets is reason enough to implement strict laws on GMO labeling. Although many claim that GMOs taste or look different, often, the modified changes are so subtle, or effect areas of the organism that we may not encounter, that we can’t tell an altered from a normal one. The labeling laws that the EU has implemented would go a long way in Armenia Armenia
Lastly, although some environmental groups bristle at any suggestion that GMOs may have the intended benefits of their creators, there are instances when their benefits to the needs of humans outweigh their aforementioned drawbacks. In instances where greater crop yields are necessary to avoid famine and starvation, GMOs offer a distinct advantage. Further, some areas of the world that have short growing seasons, or unsuitable soil for agricultural needs can use GMOs to become self-sufficient in their food production needs. This in term benefits the environment by limiting transport pollution, and also provides economic advantages to those countries, whether for domestic needs, or export. By far, the most important benefit of GMOs are the resistance they allow certain organisms to pests, including viruses, which would otherwise perish. A recent example is the plum pox virus that has appeared in stone bearing fruits such as plums and peaches in the Northeastern United States . The virus itself destroys the whole tree, and the only way to eradicate its effects are to remove the tree from soil and completely destroy it. If such a virus should find itself in the Armenian agricultural sector, there’s no telling what kind of irreparable damage, both economic and environmental, it may cause. However, a new genetically engineered strain, called the HoneySweet Plum is resistant to the effects of this virus. Similar instances can be found amongst agriculturally important crops such as potatoes, tomatoes, apples, pears, and even papayas. Ultimately, GMOs are important under certain agricultural, economic, and humanitarian circumstances. However, a thorough cost-benefit analysis must be undertaken, along with stricter regulations towards seed imports and labeling. We can either live with these novel organisms, or allow them to dominate our lives. The choice is ours.
Sources and further research
1) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GMO
2) http://biology.asj-oa.am/21/1/011.pdf
3) http://scienceblogs.com/tomorrowstable/2010/04/honey_sweet_plum.php
4) http://www.nwrage.org/index.php?name=News&file=article&sid=292
5) http://www.gmo-free-regions.org/news/2005_02_01_archive.html
6) http://www.consumersinternational.org/Templates/Internal.asp?NodeID=99453
Sunday, April 25, 2010
Commemorative March Towards the Future
Having frequently commented on the lack of Armenian Genocide recognition by US presidents and other key figures in global politics, it was quite an eye opening and amazing experience to have actually participated with thousands of other young Armenians in a commemorative march to participate in a community strengthening exercise. The frequent disappointment by the lack of Genocide commitment and awareness was turned into a powerful exercise in the unifying ability of groups with a common purpose.
The intermittent rain signaled the melancholy nature of our unity. We walked as a group of young Armenians who would not exist had it not been for the brave, the lucky, and the bold, who managed to find a way out of certain annihilation. It was 95 years ago when our most noted intellectuals were rounded up like cattle and summarily executed for the crime of being Armenian. The Ottoman Turks had decided that a whole people within their ancestral land had to be destroyed right under the nose of their supposed powerful European neighbors. For nearly 8 years and beyond, every single Armenian identified within the territory of what was then the Ottoman Empire was targeted for death. This genocide not only lead to the deaths of millions, but was also responsible for the cultural destruction that continues to this day. The crime committed is beyond comparison, and our rainy march signified the resolve to never again allow these atrocities to be repeated. We marched for recognition, we marched for significance, and most importantly, we marched for the future that we nearly completely lost. All of this was done within our sovereign homeland amongst sovereign Armenians who through history have been forced to serve under other hegemonic powers. We are now our own guardians, and we control our destiny and future. It doesn't mean that we must lose our sense of vigilance and become complacent in this ever influential global world. There are many powers now that attempt to force a future upon us that is detrimental, and we must look to our unity and our source of common cultural heritage to shirk off that which can lead to a future in which once again, we're completely servile to the influence of others. The future is always unpredictable, and we're never in complete control over how things develop, but it's better to have the ability to tweak and manipulate the semi-directed outcome than leave it in other hands. It's through our own hands that we built the buildings, monuments, streets, and all that exists today. Armenia may be territorially small today, when compared to our ancestral borders, but that which is left is the foundation and core for future generations. We'll flourish and succeed because we've continuously proclaimed our inherent need for freedom. Although our current price for freedom has been steep, we must strive to keep the unity I've seen on our march through the streets of Yerevan. Our future is dependent on us to bind together and create an Armenia that does justice to the lives of all our ancestors and to the martyrs who lost theirs during one of the darkest chapters of our history.
The intermittent rain signaled the melancholy nature of our unity. We walked as a group of young Armenians who would not exist had it not been for the brave, the lucky, and the bold, who managed to find a way out of certain annihilation. It was 95 years ago when our most noted intellectuals were rounded up like cattle and summarily executed for the crime of being Armenian. The Ottoman Turks had decided that a whole people within their ancestral land had to be destroyed right under the nose of their supposed powerful European neighbors. For nearly 8 years and beyond, every single Armenian identified within the territory of what was then the Ottoman Empire was targeted for death. This genocide not only lead to the deaths of millions, but was also responsible for the cultural destruction that continues to this day. The crime committed is beyond comparison, and our rainy march signified the resolve to never again allow these atrocities to be repeated. We marched for recognition, we marched for significance, and most importantly, we marched for the future that we nearly completely lost. All of this was done within our sovereign homeland amongst sovereign Armenians who through history have been forced to serve under other hegemonic powers. We are now our own guardians, and we control our destiny and future. It doesn't mean that we must lose our sense of vigilance and become complacent in this ever influential global world. There are many powers now that attempt to force a future upon us that is detrimental, and we must look to our unity and our source of common cultural heritage to shirk off that which can lead to a future in which once again, we're completely servile to the influence of others. The future is always unpredictable, and we're never in complete control over how things develop, but it's better to have the ability to tweak and manipulate the semi-directed outcome than leave it in other hands. It's through our own hands that we built the buildings, monuments, streets, and all that exists today. Armenia may be territorially small today, when compared to our ancestral borders, but that which is left is the foundation and core for future generations. We'll flourish and succeed because we've continuously proclaimed our inherent need for freedom. Although our current price for freedom has been steep, we must strive to keep the unity I've seen on our march through the streets of Yerevan. Our future is dependent on us to bind together and create an Armenia that does justice to the lives of all our ancestors and to the martyrs who lost theirs during one of the darkest chapters of our history.
Monday, February 15, 2010
The Dark Years: Part I
As I've come to experience what amounts to be the mildest winter in Armenia in recent memory, I'm surprised to learn just how rough things were nearly two decades ago. Under post-Soviet economic collapse, and winters so harsh, arctic climes seem more appropriate, people were forced to survive through a confluence of conditions unbearably difficult. With electricity unavailable, no running water, gas supplies extremely low, and heat at a premium, it subsequently caused a collective trauma that is still felt across the population. Those were desperate years that brought both the best and worst in people. It was a time that often showed to most people who were truly individuals to be trusted, and which ones were the first to turn their backs.
The factors involved in making the early 90's so difficult for Armenia are actually quite extensive, but a few significant ones can be identified. Before the Soviet Union's dissolution, years of failed economic management policies by Brezhnev and ill advised Gorbachev reforms caused significant problems, especially within those republics that were in the periphery of the country. The problems with construction equipment, poor building materials, corrupt contractors, and a blind eye from the highest offices to rampant disregard to safety standards eventually conspired together when Armenia was struck by the Spitak earthquake in December of 1988. This quake, which registered 6.9 in magnitude (on the Richter scale), happened to cause extensive damage to life and property. Although official casualty figures were artificially kept low, the true number of people who lost their lives is anywhere from 25,000 to 50,000 people. For a country with 3 million people, this is a significant blow. The epicenter was nearly directly under the town of Spitak, completely leveling it in the process. In addition, the larger city of Leninakan (now Gyumri) also suffered significant damage. Although this event led to the loosening of boarder restrictions and international aid pouring into a republic within the Soviet Union, the long-term damage to Armenia by this seismic event is still felt today. Many people displaced by this earthquake still have not been properly compensated or even settled. The orphans that were a result of this earthquake were often forgotten about and have grown to lead difficult lives. Their lower social status in society has been quite difficult to overcome.
The second major force involved in the Dark Years was the actual economic collapse following the break-up of the Soviet Union. The ruble, having lost most of its value made simple purchases extremely difficult. The transition required for the new Republics to adopt their own currency was mired in difficulties. The fact that this economic collapse happened to occur 3 years after the Spitak Earthquake made it even more difficult for conditions within Armenia. The ques for lines increased in proportion with the scarcity of available products. The collective farms and factories that were such a life-blood for Armenia in Soviet times fell nearly immediately into disuse. Simple public infrastructure like sanitation, water, and gas quickly became unavailable.
As a result of the aforementioned Spitak Earthquake, Armenia was forced to shut down its main supplier of electricity, the Metsamor Nuclear Power facility. The fear that a fault running directly under Metsamor would be the next to rupture and cause damage and a possible meld-down was too daunting of a prospect. The electricity shortages caused by Metsamor's shut down was significant enough to lead to infrequent power supply. Many were forced to improvise and develop methods of power consumption. Some used their last supplies of fuel obtained by the cover of darkness to power generators for an hour a day, while others used dangerous but ingenious methods of rerouting or "lefting" power from main government lines into their own private houses.
Probably the most significant dynamic involved in making the Dark Years so difficult was the Karabakh War of Independence. The tensions between Karabakh and Armenia with Azerbaijan were rising even before the Soviet collapse. Once the collapse was finalized, the numerous small-scale conflicts led to all out war. It was the Armenian's of Karabakh, an Armenian populated region that under Stalinist policy was administered by Azerbaijan, asking for their independence that was the ultimate reason for Azerbaijan's hostile actions. Naturally, Armenians of both Karabakh and Armenia proper took up arms and remembering the near annihilation by the Turks during the Armenian Genocide made this war personal. The years of 1991-1994 were dominated by the war and thus, are considered the true Dark Years. It was during this time that Armenia's border was nearly completely closed. With Azerbaijan fighting a war against Karabakh on its Eastern flank, Turkey, having deep historical and cultural ties with Azerbaijan, decided to also blockade Armenia from the West. To further complicate the border issue, Georgia to the north of Armenia was fighting a series of civil conflicts throughout those difficult years. In essence, even the northern border was closed due to its volatile nature. That left Armenia's limited Southern border with Iran as the only true method of ground-based transport. In practice however, the infrastructure with Iran and Armenia had not yet developed to allow for large-scale international traffic and commerce. Thus, in essence, the 3 years of the Karabakh war, until a cease-fire was declared resulted in the worst of what amounts to the Dark Years.
A secondary effect to the Dark Years was the depopulation of the country, as those with means and sufficient motive were able to leave. The immigration figures for this time period are limited at best, but it appears to be that at least 500,000 people left during the Dark Years. This is a significant blow to the work-force and availability of skilled work in a country of three million inhabitants. Many who weren't able to leave were forced to significantly depend on remittance from relatives abroad, especially those that lived in the United States and Russia. In those desperate times, it was the people who had some sort of life-blood outside Armenia that were able to live with some hope of eventual change. Yet, the reliance on outside forces and the lack of control over life's direction has continued to cause deep psychological scars to the population, especially the providers of families.
The scars weren't just psychological, but also effected the natural landscape. Before the Dark Years, large areas of Yerevan were covered in parks and trees. Almost all of the original vegetation was cut for fuel and disappeared. It's only in the last decade that the rebirth of parks are just starting to show. In other areas of Armenia, especially forested regions, large-scale logging that was needed for firewood lead to near total environmental disaster. Much of the virgin forests, especially in the Northwest and Southwest of Armenia were cut down.
Finally, what truly made the Dark Years stand out to Armenians was the brutality and harshness of the winters, especially '92 and '93. There was so much snow accumulated on the ground, that travel during the winter months was near impossible. Many of the resources in Armenia at this time were diverted towards helping to supply Karabakh with much needed equipment, especially as the counter-offensive was picking up. Besides the heavy snows, the weather often took a turn for the worst. It was not unheard of to have weeks of -15 or -20 Celsius weather. Keeping in mind the lack of gas, electricity, food, and water, this was indeed an impossible time to survive. Yet, each person who made it through the eye of this threading needle can tell a similar tale with numerous twists. The sheer human ingenuity required to compensate for these difficult times, and the variable methods of adaptation or even just existence that people used cannot be exaggerated. It's amazing that a large part of the population that was left in Armenia even survived through these difficult times. Experiencing a winter that is mild by Armenian standards makes it that much harder to try to understand just how hard those years were. To some who've been through it, they can hardly believe they had the strength to cope, and some don't recall just how they were able to adapt to those conditions.
Having explained the factors involved in making the Dark Years so difficult and significant, I will next write about the human side of the event. Just how did the people who passed through this storm live through that time? What was their method of survival and how do the Dark Years effect contemporary Armenian society. All in good time.....
The factors involved in making the early 90's so difficult for Armenia are actually quite extensive, but a few significant ones can be identified. Before the Soviet Union's dissolution, years of failed economic management policies by Brezhnev and ill advised Gorbachev reforms caused significant problems, especially within those republics that were in the periphery of the country. The problems with construction equipment, poor building materials, corrupt contractors, and a blind eye from the highest offices to rampant disregard to safety standards eventually conspired together when Armenia was struck by the Spitak earthquake in December of 1988. This quake, which registered 6.9 in magnitude (on the Richter scale), happened to cause extensive damage to life and property. Although official casualty figures were artificially kept low, the true number of people who lost their lives is anywhere from 25,000 to 50,000 people. For a country with 3 million people, this is a significant blow. The epicenter was nearly directly under the town of Spitak, completely leveling it in the process. In addition, the larger city of Leninakan (now Gyumri) also suffered significant damage. Although this event led to the loosening of boarder restrictions and international aid pouring into a republic within the Soviet Union, the long-term damage to Armenia by this seismic event is still felt today. Many people displaced by this earthquake still have not been properly compensated or even settled. The orphans that were a result of this earthquake were often forgotten about and have grown to lead difficult lives. Their lower social status in society has been quite difficult to overcome.
The second major force involved in the Dark Years was the actual economic collapse following the break-up of the Soviet Union. The ruble, having lost most of its value made simple purchases extremely difficult. The transition required for the new Republics to adopt their own currency was mired in difficulties. The fact that this economic collapse happened to occur 3 years after the Spitak Earthquake made it even more difficult for conditions within Armenia. The ques for lines increased in proportion with the scarcity of available products. The collective farms and factories that were such a life-blood for Armenia in Soviet times fell nearly immediately into disuse. Simple public infrastructure like sanitation, water, and gas quickly became unavailable.
As a result of the aforementioned Spitak Earthquake, Armenia was forced to shut down its main supplier of electricity, the Metsamor Nuclear Power facility. The fear that a fault running directly under Metsamor would be the next to rupture and cause damage and a possible meld-down was too daunting of a prospect. The electricity shortages caused by Metsamor's shut down was significant enough to lead to infrequent power supply. Many were forced to improvise and develop methods of power consumption. Some used their last supplies of fuel obtained by the cover of darkness to power generators for an hour a day, while others used dangerous but ingenious methods of rerouting or "lefting" power from main government lines into their own private houses.
Probably the most significant dynamic involved in making the Dark Years so difficult was the Karabakh War of Independence. The tensions between Karabakh and Armenia with Azerbaijan were rising even before the Soviet collapse. Once the collapse was finalized, the numerous small-scale conflicts led to all out war. It was the Armenian's of Karabakh, an Armenian populated region that under Stalinist policy was administered by Azerbaijan, asking for their independence that was the ultimate reason for Azerbaijan's hostile actions. Naturally, Armenians of both Karabakh and Armenia proper took up arms and remembering the near annihilation by the Turks during the Armenian Genocide made this war personal. The years of 1991-1994 were dominated by the war and thus, are considered the true Dark Years. It was during this time that Armenia's border was nearly completely closed. With Azerbaijan fighting a war against Karabakh on its Eastern flank, Turkey, having deep historical and cultural ties with Azerbaijan, decided to also blockade Armenia from the West. To further complicate the border issue, Georgia to the north of Armenia was fighting a series of civil conflicts throughout those difficult years. In essence, even the northern border was closed due to its volatile nature. That left Armenia's limited Southern border with Iran as the only true method of ground-based transport. In practice however, the infrastructure with Iran and Armenia had not yet developed to allow for large-scale international traffic and commerce. Thus, in essence, the 3 years of the Karabakh war, until a cease-fire was declared resulted in the worst of what amounts to the Dark Years.
A secondary effect to the Dark Years was the depopulation of the country, as those with means and sufficient motive were able to leave. The immigration figures for this time period are limited at best, but it appears to be that at least 500,000 people left during the Dark Years. This is a significant blow to the work-force and availability of skilled work in a country of three million inhabitants. Many who weren't able to leave were forced to significantly depend on remittance from relatives abroad, especially those that lived in the United States and Russia. In those desperate times, it was the people who had some sort of life-blood outside Armenia that were able to live with some hope of eventual change. Yet, the reliance on outside forces and the lack of control over life's direction has continued to cause deep psychological scars to the population, especially the providers of families.
The scars weren't just psychological, but also effected the natural landscape. Before the Dark Years, large areas of Yerevan were covered in parks and trees. Almost all of the original vegetation was cut for fuel and disappeared. It's only in the last decade that the rebirth of parks are just starting to show. In other areas of Armenia, especially forested regions, large-scale logging that was needed for firewood lead to near total environmental disaster. Much of the virgin forests, especially in the Northwest and Southwest of Armenia were cut down.
Finally, what truly made the Dark Years stand out to Armenians was the brutality and harshness of the winters, especially '92 and '93. There was so much snow accumulated on the ground, that travel during the winter months was near impossible. Many of the resources in Armenia at this time were diverted towards helping to supply Karabakh with much needed equipment, especially as the counter-offensive was picking up. Besides the heavy snows, the weather often took a turn for the worst. It was not unheard of to have weeks of -15 or -20 Celsius weather. Keeping in mind the lack of gas, electricity, food, and water, this was indeed an impossible time to survive. Yet, each person who made it through the eye of this threading needle can tell a similar tale with numerous twists. The sheer human ingenuity required to compensate for these difficult times, and the variable methods of adaptation or even just existence that people used cannot be exaggerated. It's amazing that a large part of the population that was left in Armenia even survived through these difficult times. Experiencing a winter that is mild by Armenian standards makes it that much harder to try to understand just how hard those years were. To some who've been through it, they can hardly believe they had the strength to cope, and some don't recall just how they were able to adapt to those conditions.
Having explained the factors involved in making the Dark Years so difficult and significant, I will next write about the human side of the event. Just how did the people who passed through this storm live through that time? What was their method of survival and how do the Dark Years effect contemporary Armenian society. All in good time.....
Wednesday, February 10, 2010
Viewing the differences is always a fight for objectivity
I've come to notice that it's very difficult to maintain objectivity when comparing the differences between two systems of education, governance, economics, university education, transportation, finance, etc. In every one of these subjects, comparisons can be made, but often, with great loss to objectivity. The vastly different origins in how these systems come about, their emergent properties so to speak, are dependent on a number of variables that include cultural nuances, historical trends, the presence of transitional economic systems, and the maturity of the existing entity among many others. I shall endeavor to list the differences that come to mind and how I perceive them, versus how it should perhaps be further objectively analyzed. It's difficult to fault for subjectivity when there are some things that are truly worse in one system over the other, while others are just a difference in perspective that perhaps would need some habituation.
As an example, the educational differences are quite striking. In the US, once one finishes high school, their higher education often consists of a Bachelors degree (for some, it requires 2 years for an associates degree at a community college first), which takes four years, followed by a Master's, which can vary in the amount of time, and can end with a PhD that requires a further number of variable years. If one wishes to specialize in a professional career in Medicine, or Law, then they attempt to enter a specific medical or law school upon the completion of their Bachelor's degree. The system in Armenia is quite different, and often times, students jump right into a 6 year degree in Medicine, straight out of high school. This definitely saves time, but as far as how well rounded one's knowledge of extra-medical or extra-law information is available, is probably less. It would be within my biases to suggest that the American model would be more advantageous to higher education, but I think this would be wrong. The educational model isn't only based on levels and years, but also on the nature of the subject and the depth with which they're covered. It seems to me that subjects that are studied in Armenia are covered in broader terms, and usually few items are skipped for brevity.
Besides the educational system, there's also the apparent student education behavior that's noticeably different. Students in theory are supposed to hold more respect for their professors, often standing while one enters, until asked to sit. This level of formality is unknown in the American system. Also, the tolerance for students to come in or out of classes are smaller, as they're often treated more like school children. Yet, regardless of how the formality of the system appears different, the students themselves are far less likely to obey them. They happen to speak through the whole lecture until scolded, they frequently use their cell phones, come late, and as for the male students who are the most frequent perpetrators of these modes of classroom respect, they often come to class with no books, notebooks, writing implements, or anything that would seem like they're active participants in their education. Perhaps due to their youth, or the fact that they're recent high school graduates, the maturity level definitely seems different than their American counterparts'. It's strange that the formality of the system is greater, but the comfort within it is far less. I don't think it would be fair to say that Armenian students would be better off with less formality, because the disruptive students would probably increase in number, or individually become more problematic.
As is the case with education, the regional economics of Armenia, thanks to the transitional economy, and the more "flexible" models of capitalism, tend to have many disruptive elements that make it difficult for the beneficial growth and retention of economic gains. The fact that the yoke from Soviet times still influences the thought that taking as much as individually possible from the system is the only way of staying on top, the reduction of corruption seems like a remote possibility. The burden that Soviet rule imposed on people's livelihood often still influences their decisions. This isn't just a problem with Armenia, but practically all the former Soviet republics, as well as a significant portion of Eastern Europe. Couple that with the fact that Armenians have had oppressive foreign rule for so long, the penchant for breaking or bending the rules is near phenomenal. As problematic as this system may seem, the American system isn't exactly free of trouble either. With the banking industry still running nearly unregulated, even after numerous bubble to trough cyclical changes, the national debt at trillions of dollars, the lack of savings within individuals, and the fact that the only thing keeping that economy afloat is lending and spending, the system seems to be teetering on the brink of failure. The only thing keeping the American economy afloat is the fact that like their giant banks, it's too big to fail. If America's economy fails, it will be catastrophic to global economic trends. As bad as this recent global economic crisis was, with the absolute failure of the American system, the danger to substantial chaos is quite obvious. Fixing this flawed system, or suggesting a few simple solutions would be about as easy as making Soviet style corruption disappear in Armenia's economic system. Though the situation is quite different, with American's living standards, per-capita income, earning power, quality of life, and other factors much higher, the fact that there are inherent unstable economic problems aren't excluded. Although I fully understand the difficulty Armenians face on a daily basis, with the realization that even the hardest work possible results in pay that is laughable when the living standards are so much higher, the fact that American's are also worked by the wealthy is no different. It's hard to focus on the ills of one system when it's possible there's greater ills created in another; but with more money to float around, there's more leeway to how corruption can influence economic trends.
It seems that when I speak of differences I notice in Armenia, transportation always seems to be a topic of discussion. I suppose it's one of the most obvious differences to another country. From an American perspective, Armenia's transportation system seems chaotic. Rules on the road, for example, are a weakly structured system, similar to anarcho-libertarianism. Basically, there are a few general rules one follows, but most are bent nearly to the point of failure. For one thing, people generally agree that the road is divided into two halves, with each half in opposite directions of each other. Even within the given half, there are some suggestions of lane markers. Most follow the general guidelines, but they're often turning into incoming traffic to avoid slower vehicles, while those lane markers within a given half are practically non-existent. Red traffic lights do have some meaning, as most cars are stopped, but often, they start speeding across the lane just before the lights turn green. If, in the rare moment that someone misses to accelerate on the pre-green red lights, then every single vehicle behind it will decide to signal their intent to run the bastard over. Driver patience is severely taxed, and where most people speed, nobody knows. They seem to be headed to solve the global economic crisis, but the most likely scenario is that they have to make it to a special designated street corner to converse for 6 hours with their friends. Now, I may find it laughable, but there are some things that are strictly enforced. There's a no-tolerance attitude towards drunk drivers: unless you're a police official, or have special diplomatic license plates. Although the system here seems chaotic, American's driving, though more orderly, often tends to gravitate towards the passively bad driving that's inherent in a system that licenses nearly anyone who asks. I can't begin to count the numerous times I've been nearly killed as a pedestrian, by inattentive elderly too old to see beyond their windshields. In addition, there are many who just drive inattentively, since the system is so ordered. In Armenia, should your attention from driving be diverted for longer than 3 femtoseconds, you'll find yourself with a pedestrian in front, a dog, three temporarily parked cabs, a marshutka, and an electric bus all conspiring to make you have the longest day of your life. It's as though if you sit in a car, you're forced to be as attentive as possible, cause inattention will either through accident or death, pull you from the pool of drivers. I guess it would be the same as a pedestrian. There is no pedestrian that can cross the street inattentive, because they would soon, through the process of Darwinian elimination, strike themselves out of the gene pool.
As an example, the educational differences are quite striking. In the US, once one finishes high school, their higher education often consists of a Bachelors degree (for some, it requires 2 years for an associates degree at a community college first), which takes four years, followed by a Master's, which can vary in the amount of time, and can end with a PhD that requires a further number of variable years. If one wishes to specialize in a professional career in Medicine, or Law, then they attempt to enter a specific medical or law school upon the completion of their Bachelor's degree. The system in Armenia is quite different, and often times, students jump right into a 6 year degree in Medicine, straight out of high school. This definitely saves time, but as far as how well rounded one's knowledge of extra-medical or extra-law information is available, is probably less. It would be within my biases to suggest that the American model would be more advantageous to higher education, but I think this would be wrong. The educational model isn't only based on levels and years, but also on the nature of the subject and the depth with which they're covered. It seems to me that subjects that are studied in Armenia are covered in broader terms, and usually few items are skipped for brevity.
Besides the educational system, there's also the apparent student education behavior that's noticeably different. Students in theory are supposed to hold more respect for their professors, often standing while one enters, until asked to sit. This level of formality is unknown in the American system. Also, the tolerance for students to come in or out of classes are smaller, as they're often treated more like school children. Yet, regardless of how the formality of the system appears different, the students themselves are far less likely to obey them. They happen to speak through the whole lecture until scolded, they frequently use their cell phones, come late, and as for the male students who are the most frequent perpetrators of these modes of classroom respect, they often come to class with no books, notebooks, writing implements, or anything that would seem like they're active participants in their education. Perhaps due to their youth, or the fact that they're recent high school graduates, the maturity level definitely seems different than their American counterparts'. It's strange that the formality of the system is greater, but the comfort within it is far less. I don't think it would be fair to say that Armenian students would be better off with less formality, because the disruptive students would probably increase in number, or individually become more problematic.
As is the case with education, the regional economics of Armenia, thanks to the transitional economy, and the more "flexible" models of capitalism, tend to have many disruptive elements that make it difficult for the beneficial growth and retention of economic gains. The fact that the yoke from Soviet times still influences the thought that taking as much as individually possible from the system is the only way of staying on top, the reduction of corruption seems like a remote possibility. The burden that Soviet rule imposed on people's livelihood often still influences their decisions. This isn't just a problem with Armenia, but practically all the former Soviet republics, as well as a significant portion of Eastern Europe. Couple that with the fact that Armenians have had oppressive foreign rule for so long, the penchant for breaking or bending the rules is near phenomenal. As problematic as this system may seem, the American system isn't exactly free of trouble either. With the banking industry still running nearly unregulated, even after numerous bubble to trough cyclical changes, the national debt at trillions of dollars, the lack of savings within individuals, and the fact that the only thing keeping that economy afloat is lending and spending, the system seems to be teetering on the brink of failure. The only thing keeping the American economy afloat is the fact that like their giant banks, it's too big to fail. If America's economy fails, it will be catastrophic to global economic trends. As bad as this recent global economic crisis was, with the absolute failure of the American system, the danger to substantial chaos is quite obvious. Fixing this flawed system, or suggesting a few simple solutions would be about as easy as making Soviet style corruption disappear in Armenia's economic system. Though the situation is quite different, with American's living standards, per-capita income, earning power, quality of life, and other factors much higher, the fact that there are inherent unstable economic problems aren't excluded. Although I fully understand the difficulty Armenians face on a daily basis, with the realization that even the hardest work possible results in pay that is laughable when the living standards are so much higher, the fact that American's are also worked by the wealthy is no different. It's hard to focus on the ills of one system when it's possible there's greater ills created in another; but with more money to float around, there's more leeway to how corruption can influence economic trends.
It seems that when I speak of differences I notice in Armenia, transportation always seems to be a topic of discussion. I suppose it's one of the most obvious differences to another country. From an American perspective, Armenia's transportation system seems chaotic. Rules on the road, for example, are a weakly structured system, similar to anarcho-libertarianism. Basically, there are a few general rules one follows, but most are bent nearly to the point of failure. For one thing, people generally agree that the road is divided into two halves, with each half in opposite directions of each other. Even within the given half, there are some suggestions of lane markers. Most follow the general guidelines, but they're often turning into incoming traffic to avoid slower vehicles, while those lane markers within a given half are practically non-existent. Red traffic lights do have some meaning, as most cars are stopped, but often, they start speeding across the lane just before the lights turn green. If, in the rare moment that someone misses to accelerate on the pre-green red lights, then every single vehicle behind it will decide to signal their intent to run the bastard over. Driver patience is severely taxed, and where most people speed, nobody knows. They seem to be headed to solve the global economic crisis, but the most likely scenario is that they have to make it to a special designated street corner to converse for 6 hours with their friends. Now, I may find it laughable, but there are some things that are strictly enforced. There's a no-tolerance attitude towards drunk drivers: unless you're a police official, or have special diplomatic license plates. Although the system here seems chaotic, American's driving, though more orderly, often tends to gravitate towards the passively bad driving that's inherent in a system that licenses nearly anyone who asks. I can't begin to count the numerous times I've been nearly killed as a pedestrian, by inattentive elderly too old to see beyond their windshields. In addition, there are many who just drive inattentively, since the system is so ordered. In Armenia, should your attention from driving be diverted for longer than 3 femtoseconds, you'll find yourself with a pedestrian in front, a dog, three temporarily parked cabs, a marshutka, and an electric bus all conspiring to make you have the longest day of your life. It's as though if you sit in a car, you're forced to be as attentive as possible, cause inattention will either through accident or death, pull you from the pool of drivers. I guess it would be the same as a pedestrian. There is no pedestrian that can cross the street inattentive, because they would soon, through the process of Darwinian elimination, strike themselves out of the gene pool.
Saturday, January 30, 2010
Cold mountain perspective
I liken the experience in Armenia to that of being on top of a freezing cold mountain unprepared. If you're focusing on the discomfort, such as the cold wind bearing down on you, the ice at your feet, the lack of long-johns, or the gloves you wish you had, you're missing the view. Armenia has a lot of things to offer, as long as you're willing to give it the attention it deserves. In the mountain analogy, it would be like starting a fire, and then sitting back to really take in the rugged and beautiful terrain.
The extent to which literacy is tied to Armenian identity is quite striking. It's one thing to read about the history of Armenian people and recognize that the Armenian alphabet was created specifically in the 5th century to allow for all the possible phonetic sounds in the language, but another thing to actually witness the sense of identity that this establishes. Most Armenians have extensive libraries of books in their own home. In fact, there are even panhandlers on the street selling books like it's crack. There's also a sense of historic and contemporary exclusiveness when such a small group of people around the world are dialed into that specific language. It's almost like the smaller and older an ethno-linguistic group, the greater the exclusivity of the culture. When your language is so closely tied to your identity, it gives you a somewhat inflated sense of perspective as well. You do feel a uniqueness that is rare in the world. I suppose it stems from a sense of pride, knowing that through all the tragic events that have occurred in Armenia's past, the language has survived for over 3000 years. Not only has it survived, but with the creation of an alphabet, it has become institutionalized for over 1600 years.
Another noticeable element to Armenian culture is the tendency to categorize things into stricter orders than one may find in the American experience. Taking age as an example, young children are rarely treated as though they have any say in their lives and experience. They are children, and because of that categorical label, they have no right to ask for things and expect to obtain them. A spoiled child is frowned upon and the parents of that child are often looked at as incompetent. In the American experience, self esteem is stressed over behavior. Basically, a child should learn to know their place and never expect to be treated as though they were in charge of their lives. Similarly, when it comes to the elderly, they're often marginalized to an extent, because they're considered past their prime. They obviously have their uses, but should not expect to be treated as though they were 30 years old. Yet, even with these stricter categorization tendencies, families are extremely close. Many generations live within the same household, and the bond that one finds within their own family extends to those of close friends and relatives. People here absolutely love children, but, rarely do you find a spoiled child. A precocious child who sings and dances brings a smile to everybody. You will not find a single person who seems unamused, or annoyed by the presence of this child. Also, in the Armenian language, there are so many familial terms, it's hard keeping up. There's a specific term for a mother-in-law that's the wife's mother (zokanch), and another for the husband's mother (kesur). Further, there's specific terms for an uncle from the father's side, and that from the mother's. This richness in descriptive terms may also be a result of the colorful quality of the language itself. Generally, I've noticed that a paragraph in English translated to Armenian takes a great deal more space. Verbosity is definitely a significant element of the Armenian language. Structurally, it's quite easy to string word roots together to become descriptively more specific. Thus, polysyllabic words are commonly encountered linguistic phenomena.
Pets in Armenia are viewed quite differently as well. Due to the ubiquity of street dogs, people don't view dogs as the domestic companion that North Americans tend to associate with. Since most dogs people encounter are strays that roam in packs, their mental picture of a dog is a scroungy mutt eating garbage off the side of the street. Some people are downright mean to these dogs, kicking and spitting at them. Due to my regional biases, when I see these dogs, I'm impressed by their survivability. There truly is a Darwinian element to their existence. Some of these dogs have evolved impressive skills of navigating through traffic, even the speeds with which it flows here in Yerevan. Because it's winter here, these dogs have further adapted to the elements, and those that are often seen tend to grow thick coats of fur. Those that do have dogs as pets can be categorized (allow me to be Armenian here) into two main groups. You have the dog owners who want to show their power, so they walk muzzled German shepherds that are twice the size of the ones in the US. These owners also tend to favor other large alert-looking breeds. Your second main dog owner tends to favor the smaller, hyperactive dogs that look well maintained, indicating to other people that you finally caved in to the pleating and constant begging of your wife and children.
The cultural life is so rich in Yerevan, it's hard to take two steps without noticing some element of it. From the statues that endlessly dominate the landscape, to the countless museums, the opera, the theatres, music clubs, and even the street musicians, this is a country that doesn't shy away from it's cultural roots. It's also a cosmopolitan mix of cultural elements that give Yerevan an internationally variable flavor. Armenia truly is a near-chaotic mix of global elements. In addition to intrinsic cultural modalities, there's a sieve like openness to adopting various elements from extrinsic sources. It's interesting to note what becomes adopted and diffused into contemporary Yerevan, and what is discarded. The automobile alone is a conspicuous microcosm of cultural chaos in Yerevan. In addition to the Russian-made models of vehicles that are a product of Soviet times, there are also European, American, as well as Japanese and Korean models. Some of the German vehicles are so new, they haven't even seen the light of day in outlying areas of Germany itself. With all these disparate choices of cars, people tend to drive them as fast as possible as the car's top speed dictates. With cars from so many regions, the license plates have to be variable as well. Anything from the squarer American type plates to the more rectangular European and Japanese plates. Through all these speeding cars, there are microbuses and taxis navigating as though they're on an obstacle course. One does wonder how a country with 70% of the population struggling to make ends meet can be home to so many powerful cars. Those who have the goods, whether legitimately or not, know how to flash it. They don't shy away from humility when it comes to indicating to those around you that your bank account is bigger than the Sultan of Brunei's.
One can't speak of global culturally influenced diversity without mentioning food. There is nearly nothing that's unobtainable in Yerevan today. Restaurants cater to every mouth-water appetite. Yet, just as in other parts of the world, there are certain things that will seem oddly placed. You can go to a Mexican restaurant here and find pickled celery...quite the head scratcher. If you find yourself in an American-style pizza place, there will be yogurt. There's also a KFC restaurant (HQ in Russia), which offers an interesting combo meal. You can buy some KFC chicken, with shish kebab, and soda (probably Coke or Fanta choices).
The extent to which literacy is tied to Armenian identity is quite striking. It's one thing to read about the history of Armenian people and recognize that the Armenian alphabet was created specifically in the 5th century to allow for all the possible phonetic sounds in the language, but another thing to actually witness the sense of identity that this establishes. Most Armenians have extensive libraries of books in their own home. In fact, there are even panhandlers on the street selling books like it's crack. There's also a sense of historic and contemporary exclusiveness when such a small group of people around the world are dialed into that specific language. It's almost like the smaller and older an ethno-linguistic group, the greater the exclusivity of the culture. When your language is so closely tied to your identity, it gives you a somewhat inflated sense of perspective as well. You do feel a uniqueness that is rare in the world. I suppose it stems from a sense of pride, knowing that through all the tragic events that have occurred in Armenia's past, the language has survived for over 3000 years. Not only has it survived, but with the creation of an alphabet, it has become institutionalized for over 1600 years.
Another noticeable element to Armenian culture is the tendency to categorize things into stricter orders than one may find in the American experience. Taking age as an example, young children are rarely treated as though they have any say in their lives and experience. They are children, and because of that categorical label, they have no right to ask for things and expect to obtain them. A spoiled child is frowned upon and the parents of that child are often looked at as incompetent. In the American experience, self esteem is stressed over behavior. Basically, a child should learn to know their place and never expect to be treated as though they were in charge of their lives. Similarly, when it comes to the elderly, they're often marginalized to an extent, because they're considered past their prime. They obviously have their uses, but should not expect to be treated as though they were 30 years old. Yet, even with these stricter categorization tendencies, families are extremely close. Many generations live within the same household, and the bond that one finds within their own family extends to those of close friends and relatives. People here absolutely love children, but, rarely do you find a spoiled child. A precocious child who sings and dances brings a smile to everybody. You will not find a single person who seems unamused, or annoyed by the presence of this child. Also, in the Armenian language, there are so many familial terms, it's hard keeping up. There's a specific term for a mother-in-law that's the wife's mother (zokanch), and another for the husband's mother (kesur). Further, there's specific terms for an uncle from the father's side, and that from the mother's. This richness in descriptive terms may also be a result of the colorful quality of the language itself. Generally, I've noticed that a paragraph in English translated to Armenian takes a great deal more space. Verbosity is definitely a significant element of the Armenian language. Structurally, it's quite easy to string word roots together to become descriptively more specific. Thus, polysyllabic words are commonly encountered linguistic phenomena.
Pets in Armenia are viewed quite differently as well. Due to the ubiquity of street dogs, people don't view dogs as the domestic companion that North Americans tend to associate with. Since most dogs people encounter are strays that roam in packs, their mental picture of a dog is a scroungy mutt eating garbage off the side of the street. Some people are downright mean to these dogs, kicking and spitting at them. Due to my regional biases, when I see these dogs, I'm impressed by their survivability. There truly is a Darwinian element to their existence. Some of these dogs have evolved impressive skills of navigating through traffic, even the speeds with which it flows here in Yerevan. Because it's winter here, these dogs have further adapted to the elements, and those that are often seen tend to grow thick coats of fur. Those that do have dogs as pets can be categorized (allow me to be Armenian here) into two main groups. You have the dog owners who want to show their power, so they walk muzzled German shepherds that are twice the size of the ones in the US. These owners also tend to favor other large alert-looking breeds. Your second main dog owner tends to favor the smaller, hyperactive dogs that look well maintained, indicating to other people that you finally caved in to the pleating and constant begging of your wife and children.
The cultural life is so rich in Yerevan, it's hard to take two steps without noticing some element of it. From the statues that endlessly dominate the landscape, to the countless museums, the opera, the theatres, music clubs, and even the street musicians, this is a country that doesn't shy away from it's cultural roots. It's also a cosmopolitan mix of cultural elements that give Yerevan an internationally variable flavor. Armenia truly is a near-chaotic mix of global elements. In addition to intrinsic cultural modalities, there's a sieve like openness to adopting various elements from extrinsic sources. It's interesting to note what becomes adopted and diffused into contemporary Yerevan, and what is discarded. The automobile alone is a conspicuous microcosm of cultural chaos in Yerevan. In addition to the Russian-made models of vehicles that are a product of Soviet times, there are also European, American, as well as Japanese and Korean models. Some of the German vehicles are so new, they haven't even seen the light of day in outlying areas of Germany itself. With all these disparate choices of cars, people tend to drive them as fast as possible as the car's top speed dictates. With cars from so many regions, the license plates have to be variable as well. Anything from the squarer American type plates to the more rectangular European and Japanese plates. Through all these speeding cars, there are microbuses and taxis navigating as though they're on an obstacle course. One does wonder how a country with 70% of the population struggling to make ends meet can be home to so many powerful cars. Those who have the goods, whether legitimately or not, know how to flash it. They don't shy away from humility when it comes to indicating to those around you that your bank account is bigger than the Sultan of Brunei's.
One can't speak of global culturally influenced diversity without mentioning food. There is nearly nothing that's unobtainable in Yerevan today. Restaurants cater to every mouth-water appetite. Yet, just as in other parts of the world, there are certain things that will seem oddly placed. You can go to a Mexican restaurant here and find pickled celery...quite the head scratcher. If you find yourself in an American-style pizza place, there will be yogurt. There's also a KFC restaurant (HQ in Russia), which offers an interesting combo meal. You can buy some KFC chicken, with shish kebab, and soda (probably Coke or Fanta choices).
Monday, January 25, 2010
Armenia lacks critical thinking -- It's a conspiracy, man!
Every time I come to Armenia, I notice significant changes such as new buildings and tunnels, people's style of clothing, additional tourists, and the ever-changing nightlife, with bars and clubs opening, older ones closing. Throughout all this visual bedlam, the one constant that remains is the lack of critical thought in people's opinions and beliefs. Practically every conversation eventually leads to the discovery or uncovering of a conspiracy. Rumors heard, snippets read aloud in hushed tones, biased newspaper clippings that are obviously skewed, all lead to some incredible beliefs. It's quite a shock to realize how little reality and rationalism has to do with someone's piecemeal worldview. It's one thing to have a theological discussion about reality, and what constitutes one's personal choices in their lack or strength of religious belief, but it's a completely different animal when people can't seem to tell the difference between evidence and unsubstantiated rumor(s). As long as some gathered data points fit into a predetermined grid, further strengthening the skewed core, and dismissing all points to the contrary, Armenians become enamored with subjective perspectives. Their convictions to these irrational beliefs are only strengthened through time. Yet, as soon as something shakes their perspective, and their beliefs suddenly change, the fact that they had such strength in conviction is easily forgotten and discounted, only to be replaced with something else of equal or greater conviction. It's like an infinite cyclical process that seems to have no visible means of ending.
Most heated, unsubstantiated, and irrational discussions tend to focus on Armenia's lack of power in the world. To the population at large, it's always due to external forces, and internal ones that have sold out to those outside forces. As is often the case in global politics, external forces are an unavoidable constant. It's how you deal with those forces and organize to strengthen against fragmentation that determines your perceived strength. Further, a little perspective wouldn't hurt the situation either. The fact that there's still a country, no matter how small, still called Hayastan, after at least 2600 years of intermittent boundary recognition is an amazing feat of luck and nuanced political maneuvering. Armenians have gone from tribal rule (3000 years ago), to monarchy (intermittently from 2500 - 600 years ago), to theocracy, to communism, and now, emerging Democracy. Trying to explain all this from a rational perspective does not sit well with people's biased opinions. Nationalism itself is a touchy subject and attempting to show through evidence that there is no such thing as ethnic purity, and all that happened to unify a certain group of people that we now call Armenians is a common language at some point in the past, tends to be dismissed at best, and considered treacherous and offensive at worst. Many academics who have attempted to maintain critical thought have been ostracized and considered traitors.
A very enlightening conversation with other diasporans has made me realize that this lack of critical thought has not gone unnoticed. Once aware of the extent to which it's exercised, almost every single conversation seems to retain some element of it. To be fair however, it's not as though there's just one substantiated explanation for everything. As was so eloquently explained by a very intelligent political scientist, critical thought however isn't limited towards identifying just one interpretation of a given subject. There may indeed be numerous equally valid interpretations that must all be carefully analyzed. As more evidence comes to light, the likelihood of these various interpretations shift accordingly. Some strengthen as others significantly weaken. As an example; the people who built the Egyptian pyramids are now known to have been paid Egyptian workers, some skilled, others laborers, but all doing it out of state sanctioned necessity. For a significant amount of time, leading up to mide to late 20th century, due in no small part to Biblical perspectives, the pyramids were thought to have been built by Hebrew slaves. It's understandable that the lack of physical evidence, such as archaeological records, limited perspective and scope. Since the only account for a significant amount of time was that of the Bible, other perspectives were non-existent. However, as more information came to light and as as Egyptian records were uncovered, it became clear that there might be more to this story. Soon enough, with substantial archaeological discoveries, it's become increasingly clear that only one interpretation is truly substantiated. Not all modes of thought that involve such interpretations can be so nicely cleared, but it's only through evidence, critical thinking, and by extension, the scientific method, that we can form a worldview with a healthy perspective. Did you hear that Armenia?
Most heated, unsubstantiated, and irrational discussions tend to focus on Armenia's lack of power in the world. To the population at large, it's always due to external forces, and internal ones that have sold out to those outside forces. As is often the case in global politics, external forces are an unavoidable constant. It's how you deal with those forces and organize to strengthen against fragmentation that determines your perceived strength. Further, a little perspective wouldn't hurt the situation either. The fact that there's still a country, no matter how small, still called Hayastan, after at least 2600 years of intermittent boundary recognition is an amazing feat of luck and nuanced political maneuvering. Armenians have gone from tribal rule (3000 years ago), to monarchy (intermittently from 2500 - 600 years ago), to theocracy, to communism, and now, emerging Democracy. Trying to explain all this from a rational perspective does not sit well with people's biased opinions. Nationalism itself is a touchy subject and attempting to show through evidence that there is no such thing as ethnic purity, and all that happened to unify a certain group of people that we now call Armenians is a common language at some point in the past, tends to be dismissed at best, and considered treacherous and offensive at worst. Many academics who have attempted to maintain critical thought have been ostracized and considered traitors.
A very enlightening conversation with other diasporans has made me realize that this lack of critical thought has not gone unnoticed. Once aware of the extent to which it's exercised, almost every single conversation seems to retain some element of it. To be fair however, it's not as though there's just one substantiated explanation for everything. As was so eloquently explained by a very intelligent political scientist, critical thought however isn't limited towards identifying just one interpretation of a given subject. There may indeed be numerous equally valid interpretations that must all be carefully analyzed. As more evidence comes to light, the likelihood of these various interpretations shift accordingly. Some strengthen as others significantly weaken. As an example; the people who built the Egyptian pyramids are now known to have been paid Egyptian workers, some skilled, others laborers, but all doing it out of state sanctioned necessity. For a significant amount of time, leading up to mide to late 20th century, due in no small part to Biblical perspectives, the pyramids were thought to have been built by Hebrew slaves. It's understandable that the lack of physical evidence, such as archaeological records, limited perspective and scope. Since the only account for a significant amount of time was that of the Bible, other perspectives were non-existent. However, as more information came to light and as as Egyptian records were uncovered, it became clear that there might be more to this story. Soon enough, with substantial archaeological discoveries, it's become increasingly clear that only one interpretation is truly substantiated. Not all modes of thought that involve such interpretations can be so nicely cleared, but it's only through evidence, critical thinking, and by extension, the scientific method, that we can form a worldview with a healthy perspective. Did you hear that Armenia?
Friday, January 22, 2010
The Armenian Profile
Most ethnic groups in the world have certain physical traits that are quickly identifiable by outsiders. Armenians, however, are a very diverse group of people, making it difficult for most stereotypical categorizations. Although the majority have dark hair, there are a significant minority with lighter hair, even those as blonde as seen in Northern Europe. Further, there's a great deal of variability in body type, from short to tall, fat to thin, and everything in between. It's quite a shock to realize that all these physically diverse people share the same cultural heritage and identify within the same ethno-linguistic group. Often within the same family, there is such a physical difference that it's hard to conclude a common origin. Even body hair is much more variable than I had expected. Sure, as a rule, Armenians in general are more pileous than most non-Mediterranean/West Asian peoples, but there's still a great deal of variability in the degree and magnitude. Yet, there is one major exception to all this. Much has been written about the Armenian nose, but very little of that is an exaggeration. We truly are a people with characteristic noses. Truth be told, there is a great deal of variation in even this feature, but what ties most Armenians together is that the defining characteristic of their faces are their noses. Especially noticeable in profile, nature didn't think there was a limit towards experimenting with whimsical projections of flesh and cartilage. Something this unique, anywhere else would stand out quite strikingly, but when it's so ubiquitous, it becomes practically normal.
As an example, here's a humble, crudely pieced together comparison of my profile, along with that of the greatest king Armenia's every known: Tigran the Great. It's in no way an arrogant personal reflection, but is made to show that nearly 2100 years and countless numbers of foreign invaders weren't enough to deter this particular physical trait.
Sure, the angle's a bit different, but as can be seen, noses are our national landmark. They should be protected under UNESCO world heritage conservation. It's a defining national characteristic. I guess we should look forward to another 2100 years of nasal dominance.
As an example, here's a humble, crudely pieced together comparison of my profile, along with that of the greatest king Armenia's every known: Tigran the Great. It's in no way an arrogant personal reflection, but is made to show that nearly 2100 years and countless numbers of foreign invaders weren't enough to deter this particular physical trait.
Sure, the angle's a bit different, but as can be seen, noses are our national landmark. They should be protected under UNESCO world heritage conservation. It's a defining national characteristic. I guess we should look forward to another 2100 years of nasal dominance.
Thursday, January 21, 2010
Broken Promises
You're not officially in Armenia until you come face to face with the snarling dragon called broken promise. Sure, it's an elusive creature that seems completely invisible. It doesn't make itself known until you're so sure it's not there, you've discounted the possibility and haven't given it a passing thought. Your excitement towards something different, and the constant novel experiences at every turn prevent you from thinking about anything that may cause difficulty on your path. Suddenly, broken promise thunders across the sky, making sure every living creature, from bear to insect is aware of its presence.
My dragon was related to the officials at Yerevan State University. Apparently, due to instructors and other administrative officials accepting bribes for grades, the staff at the university had a visit from Mr. Government. What MG said was that unless major changes were in order, a lot of people's head would roll. Because of this, all the administrative staff developed the power needed to summon broken promise. They began to deal tentatively with my transfer situation and backpedaled their way over a cliff. I was told that I could not enter Medical school as a transfer student in the second semester of the third level, as promised, but as a favor to me, would place me in September at the second level. Basically, I've suddenly faced with 1 1/2 years of additional coursework that I've already completed. I must now retake Chemistry and physics courses, amongst many others that I have no need for. What's worse is that they make it seem like broken promise is a favor.
Although I should be incensed, I'm not frightened by this ugly dragon. This is just a hurdle that was to be expected because this is Armenia. It's not the contractually obligated United States and you can't take anybody's word, especially a government official's for anything nearing certainty. Promises are easy to make, but breaking them is simpler than trying to uphold ones word.
My journey into Medical school just got much more complicated, but I'll take a page from a certain local animal and do as they do. When moufflon find a barrier in their infinite climbs up and down rugged mountains, they don't flinch for a second. They always find a way to greener pastures and nothing, not even the climactic elements could keep them from their goal. Like the mighty moufflon, I'll accept my current situation, and charge forward. Greener pastures, one way or another...even if it takes a dragon slaying to accomplish.
My dragon was related to the officials at Yerevan State University. Apparently, due to instructors and other administrative officials accepting bribes for grades, the staff at the university had a visit from Mr. Government. What MG said was that unless major changes were in order, a lot of people's head would roll. Because of this, all the administrative staff developed the power needed to summon broken promise. They began to deal tentatively with my transfer situation and backpedaled their way over a cliff. I was told that I could not enter Medical school as a transfer student in the second semester of the third level, as promised, but as a favor to me, would place me in September at the second level. Basically, I've suddenly faced with 1 1/2 years of additional coursework that I've already completed. I must now retake Chemistry and physics courses, amongst many others that I have no need for. What's worse is that they make it seem like broken promise is a favor.
Although I should be incensed, I'm not frightened by this ugly dragon. This is just a hurdle that was to be expected because this is Armenia. It's not the contractually obligated United States and you can't take anybody's word, especially a government official's for anything nearing certainty. Promises are easy to make, but breaking them is simpler than trying to uphold ones word.
My journey into Medical school just got much more complicated, but I'll take a page from a certain local animal and do as they do. When moufflon find a barrier in their infinite climbs up and down rugged mountains, they don't flinch for a second. They always find a way to greener pastures and nothing, not even the climactic elements could keep them from their goal. Like the mighty moufflon, I'll accept my current situation, and charge forward. Greener pastures, one way or another...even if it takes a dragon slaying to accomplish.
Destination Yerevan
For those who plan on flying Aeroflot, expect to wait. When you're tired of waiting and it seems like it can't get any worse, plan to wait some more. Eventually, the flight itself, as long as it is, seems much shorter in comparison. Apparently, the Aeroflot staff are trained repeatedly to become detached and careless. What's important to them is to delay relevant information to disgruntled passengers until the absolute last moment.
My flight took off from Los Angeles about 7 hours late, and by the time I landed in Moscow, the 6 1/2 hour layover that seemed as though it would take forever wasn't quite enough time. Once in Moscow, I had no choice but to be placed in a hotel until the next morning. What's more, since I was a transit passenger with no Russian visa, I was treated like a Chechen prisoner. They put me up on a special hotel floor with its own security guard, and the -15 Celsius outside apparently wasn't a barrier enough to prevent my roaming the streets. At some point, thanks to jet lag, I stepped out of the room to ask to use the computers but was told that the security detail was unavailable till 6 am, and I was left trapped in my own room. Sure, they provided some breakfast, and shuttled me back to the airport on time, but my frustration towards Aeroflot wasn't fully reduced. Once there, the plane managed to take off an hour late as the wings were deiced on the runway. After some tortuous turbulence, I finally arrived in Yerevan to a balmy winter. Instead of snow, it was rain that greeted my arrival.
My flight took off from Los Angeles about 7 hours late, and by the time I landed in Moscow, the 6 1/2 hour layover that seemed as though it would take forever wasn't quite enough time. Once in Moscow, I had no choice but to be placed in a hotel until the next morning. What's more, since I was a transit passenger with no Russian visa, I was treated like a Chechen prisoner. They put me up on a special hotel floor with its own security guard, and the -15 Celsius outside apparently wasn't a barrier enough to prevent my roaming the streets. At some point, thanks to jet lag, I stepped out of the room to ask to use the computers but was told that the security detail was unavailable till 6 am, and I was left trapped in my own room. Sure, they provided some breakfast, and shuttled me back to the airport on time, but my frustration towards Aeroflot wasn't fully reduced. Once there, the plane managed to take off an hour late as the wings were deiced on the runway. After some tortuous turbulence, I finally arrived in Yerevan to a balmy winter. Instead of snow, it was rain that greeted my arrival.
Thursday, January 7, 2010
Preparing to Depart
It's now exactly a week to the day I'll be leaving the comfortable clime of Hawaii to the distinct reality that is Armenia. I'm both excited and apprehensive at the unknowns facing me. Most of my thoughts are aimed at the little things that I probably shouldn't really worry about. I'm still deciding as to what specific items of clothing I may need, and which ones I should just leave behind. Further, I'm also concerned about how the visa situation will turn out, as I'm planning on starting my trip with a 90 day traveler visa, followed by either a student visa or a green card. Since I was born in Armenia, it's certainly within the realm of feasibility to obtain a green card. Yet, I don't know how this quasi dual citizenship will reflect as I re-enter the United States.
Considering the small details that concern me, I'll probably come to realize they're baseless, and wonder why I hadn't spent more time reflecting on the more serious consequences of my Armenian adventure.
As the New Year has dawned, I'm looking forward to the open adventure that awaits me, but trying to maintain some semblance of grounded sensibility. It's hard to relate these upcoming experiences with those of other people, as it's such a personal introspective journey. Perhaps on the surface, it may seem similar, the true depth of each person's experience is singular and probably incomparable. It helps to know that others have gone to foreign medical schools and have been able to obtain residency upon their return. Certainly, the younger generation of physicians have a better grasp of these intricacies, as they have many colleagues that have endured the tortuous path to medicine.
Considering the small details that concern me, I'll probably come to realize they're baseless, and wonder why I hadn't spent more time reflecting on the more serious consequences of my Armenian adventure.
As the New Year has dawned, I'm looking forward to the open adventure that awaits me, but trying to maintain some semblance of grounded sensibility. It's hard to relate these upcoming experiences with those of other people, as it's such a personal introspective journey. Perhaps on the surface, it may seem similar, the true depth of each person's experience is singular and probably incomparable. It helps to know that others have gone to foreign medical schools and have been able to obtain residency upon their return. Certainly, the younger generation of physicians have a better grasp of these intricacies, as they have many colleagues that have endured the tortuous path to medicine.
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)